Banh Mi Baby
I live just off Commercial Drive in Vancouver. It is an eclectic, colourful, and authentic neighbourhood. I love living here. Often called Little Italy, it’s historically known as an Italian neighbourhood and the go to place for Italian food but there’s a hole in the wall I visit (very often) for Vietnamese banh mi.
I was introduced to banh mi early - it was my first sandwich and what a good one! I love sandwiches in general, that wonderful interplay of flavours, textures and colours. I also believe, no matter where you are in the world, you will find some version of a sandwich, and it will likely be delicious. Bahn mi have a special place in my heart. Paris Bakery (aka Cafe Phin Phap) on Commercial Drive makes a great banh mi sandwich. There’s a bunch of weird signage on the window so I’m not 100% of the name but I think it goes by Paris Bakery now.
Paris Bakery can be a bit odd and intimidating to enter. There are often groups of Vietnamese men playing games or chess outside or people just hanging out. It reminds me of being in Vietnam where people make time for one another, lingering over coffees, shakes, snacks and light meals. A place where people seem to make more time for friends and family.
Stepping into Paris Bakery feels like stepping into a foreign country. For me, it’s also like stepping into my past. My dad fed me banh mi sandwiches when I visited him as a kid. They’re now about $4.75 a pop and in the late 80s I believe they were $2, so when I visited my dad, this is what he fed me. Cheap meal, happy kid. It worked.
It was such a treat. Actually, it’s still one of my favourite things to eat! I do like the meatball or lemongrass chicken version but my favourite is usually the cold cut, a mix of Vietnamese deli meats, veggies and pate. The bread at Paris has a flaky, crust with just a bit of give and a so soft interior. They’re also a wholesaler of bread, it’s that good. It’s slathered with a fatty, homemade mayonnaise, and has these delicious flavourful meats: head cheese, steamed pork sausage, and creamy liver pate (all of which are so tasty to me and I loved it even as a kiddo). Add tangy, crunchy, pickled daikon and carrots, plus a burst of freshness from a scallion, some cilantro, and a spear of cool cucumber. I like a hit of heat from fresh jalapenos but some of my earlier memories are of being completely blindsided as a kid, when I didn’t check for the pepper in the sandwich. I’ve gotten chili in my eye, and have entered into terrible, deep, black dreams because of a stray pepper. Now I ask for a banh mi, extra spicy. This delicious sandwich is then wrapped up in wax paper .
I’ve eaten banh mi in Vancouver since your peanut butter and jelly days. I’ve eaten it all over the Lower Mainland. I’ve had banh mi in Vietnam, in Cambodia, and in Venice Beach. I like banh mi! Except I must confess. I was recently in Vietnam for almost three weeks., and I ate banh mi only three times!
A banh mi from Paris Bakery has become something I really look forward to on a Saturday, or sometimes on a weekday when I work from home. It’s a nice break; I walk on down, rain or shine. They also have other offerings like Vietnamese coffee, fruit shakes, salad rolls and a plethora of banh mi versions to choose from. The meatball one is also super delicious!
One is more than enough for me but I’ve been known to eat two when I am famished beyond all reason. Check it out, they even accept credit card and debit now.
- Ratha
Paris Bakery
1403 Commercial Dr,
Vancouver, BC V5L 3X8
Gimme dat, gimme dat. Banh mi, baby.
